The Adventure. The Fight. The Beauty?

Monday, July 03, 2006

A more sobering experience

Okay, if you are only interested in eurokang chasing aussie gold, stop reading now ... the aussie gold dream has ended.

Alright, to those of you still with me, you may be aware that I am fairly interested in history, especially the history of World War 1 and World War 2. I am not sure which particular aspect of their mistory makes these wars from the last century stand out in particular; whether it is the absolute honesty of humanity exposed at such a time, or if it is simply that it is easier to understand than, for instance, the history of a particular idea or something else as esoteric. Anyway.

Summary of the last paragraph for those who got lost in my ramblings: I like World War I and World War II history.

So, at the end of the last episode, I was in Strasbourg, ready to go off adventuring on my own. I have had it in mind for some time to try and visit some of the historical sites associated with the wars in Europe. Since I was so close to them from Strasbourg, and I didn't have to drag anyone else through it, it seemed that this was as good a time as any!

Off I went on the train the next morning up to Belgium. After changing a few times, I hopped on a bus at Libramont and headed off to a tiny village in the middle of nowhere called Bastogne. Bastoge was the centre point for the biggest German counter attack of the Western War in Europe, otherwise known as the Battle of the Bulge. If you have watched the mini series Band of Brothers, this battle is featured in episodes 6 and 7. Bastogne itself was not much to look at, there was a tank in the middle of the town square, and that was about it. I happened to start talking to a few American history buffs (one of whom is a Captain in the American 4th armoured (although he is in infantry) and served in Afghanistan and Iraq, just out of interest!) who were happy to drop me out near the town of Foy the next day.

So off I headed and explored the area around Bastogne. The woods shown below are known as Bois Jacques, and are the site where Easy Company (101st Division, 506th PIR) (the ones from Band of Brothers!) were stationed.


The woods are filled with the fox holes the guys actually used which can still be seen.

The shot below is from in one of the fox holes, just for a bit of perspective!
From there I wandered over to overlook the town of Foy which Easy Company attacked and captured later.

Pretty crazy stuff. Just a bunch of tiny towns in the middle of nowhere, absolutely nothing to look at, and yet 75000 allies, and about the same amount of Germans lost their lives here.

From Bastogne, I thought I would keep exploring the Ardennes area (south east corner of Belgium), and decided to head off to another town called La Roche where there was supposed to be mountain biking and kyaking. A lady at the information service told me that I could get a bus out there, but I had to change buses at a place called Houffalize, but she didn't have the timetable for the second bus. Off I headed into the blue yonder. Upon arriving at Houffalize at about 2pm ( a beautiful little town in a river valley), I asked around in my poor french for when the next bus was going to La Roche. After much investigating, it turned out the next bus for La Roche was tomorrow! So much for that idea. I had been noticing mountain biking posters around, so decided to hang around Houffalize instead.

So, got a room, hired a bike, and off I went. There were a few tracks around the area, I tried to pick one that would be okay. I had about 3 hours until the shop closed, so I picked the second easiest track ... a 27km "medium" grade through the surrounding area. Well, I must admit, I thought 27km should be pretty easy ... I ride 50km on a road bike. I however forgot to factor in the whole mountain biking thing! 27km is a long way, especially in about 30 degree heat with time pressure! After a couple of wrong turns (missing signs), one involving a descent down (and walk up) a hill about as big as Sydney road, I was really thinking I wasn't going to make it back though. In the end, it was all good and I made it back. A fantastic way to see the local area. The track going through some woods:

The few from the track:
The next day I tried to head back out of there. I decided to try and get to a little town called Gouvy which was only 15km away. No one seemed to know what time this bus left either. After waiting for about an hour for the bus, one came along the other way. I rushed over and asked the driver when he would be back ... 4 hours later was not the answer I was looking for! So, I jumped on, and went all the way back through Bastogne to Libramont. All good in the end.

From there, up to do a bit of R&R (and beer drinking) at Brugge, also known as Venice of the North and the chocolate capital of Belgium (the world?). Watched a few good games of soccer as well, very relaxing.
Next, down to a town called Ypres which was the site of a number of World War I battles (actually, there was a battle there for just about the entire war ... 3 years and the front moved less than 5kms for about 2 of them). This was trench warfare at its worst, a lot of Aussies fought and died here as well. Below is a photo of a reconstructed trench system near Hill 62. Amazing stuff. There is one section where about 200 000 men lost their lives in an 8 month period (near Paschendaele)
Very interesting, although very disturbing. Today, I jumped on a TGV to Paris, and found to my horror that the rest of the world had arrived before me! I mean, I know summer is supposed to be packed, but a Tuesday and every hostel is full?? Expensive hotel ... ouch.

From here, I am heading up to the D-Day beaches and then on to Dinard and London where I catch up with a bunch of people!

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